The biodynamic Chardonnay Vom Loss is made by the exciting Rieger winery in the German region of Baden, on the edge of the Black Forest. From old vines and partially barrel-aged, this delicious medium-weight wine boasts an attractive creamy texture, with flavours of blossom, hazelnut, vanilla, and white peaches, finishing fresh and elegant.
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Weingut Rieger is an exciting biodynamic winery located at the southern end of Germany’s Baden region, just a few yards from the edge of the Black Forest. Initially, this was a traditional agricultural estate with arable and livestock farming, as well as a small viticulture component. Bernhard and his wife, Josepha Rieger, increased the focus on wine in the mid-1980s, and vineyards around Betberg were purchased or leased. In 1986, the doors of their wine tavern were opened, allowing interested wine drinkers to enjoy their wines with food. Their son, Philipp, joined the winery in 2013 and continued to develop it by expanding their holdings and creating a new cellar, warehouse, and wine shop, while steadily raising the quality of the wines.
With vineyards worked organically since 2005, the winery and vineyards are now fully Demeter-certified biodynamic and are transitioning to become fully sustainable. The winery roof features solar panels that generate an excess of electricity, while rainwater is collected and recycled. Winemaker Markus Brauchle works with a light touch; a long, very soft press for gentle extraction and very clean must, limited batonnage, no fining and low levels of SO2, without veering into natural wine territory.
This part of Germany has one of warmest growing seasons, so as with many wineries in Baden, the focus is on the “Pinot” varieties, of which Chardonnay is one, and they also make some Chasselas, which is more commonly found over the nearby border in Switzerland, plus a couple of really good non-alcoholic options.
The biodynamic Chardonnay Vom Loss is sourced from the south-facing "Oberer Berg" vineyard, located approximately one kilometre from the winery, with vines planted in 1993. Fermented and aged in a combination of 2nd use old oak and stainless steel, given regular batonnage, this delicious wine has an attractive creamy texture, with flavours of blossom, nougat, vanilla and white peaches, finishing fresh and elegant – a seductive white for drinking over the next 2 years - a great example of the potential of this region for quality Chardonnay.
On the nose, this wine offers aromas of ripe peach, green apple, and subtle hints of vanilla and toasted almond. The palate is medium-bodied, with firm acidity that lifts flavours of nectarine, citrus peel and a distinct stony minerality. The finish is focused and clean, with a delicate touch of oak that adds length without overwhelming the freshness.
The Chardonnay’s balance of fruit and minerality makes it an excellent match for roasted poultry, grilled seafood, and dishes featuring creamy sauces. It also pairs well with mild, semi-soft cheeses and vegetable-based dishes that benefit from its freshness and subtle complexity.