Weisser Gutedel is also known as Chasselas, a grape commonly associated with Switzerland. This lovely example comes from the biodynamic Rieger winery in the German region of Baden. Fresh and floral, with aromas of juicy pears, mirabelle, and a hint of lemongrass. A gentle, creamy texture and fresh, saline acidity.
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Weingut Rieger is an exciting biodynamic winery located at the southern end of Germany’s Baden region, just a few yards from the edge of the Black Forest. Initially, this was a traditional agricultural estate with arable and livestock farming, as well as a small viticulture component. Bernhard and his wife, Josepha Rieger, increased the focus on wine in the mid-1980s, and vineyards around Betberg were purchased or leased. In 1986, the doors of their wine tavern were open, allowing interested wine drinkers to enjoy their wines with food. Their son Philip joined the winery in 2013 and continued to develop it by expanding their holdings and creating a new cellar, warehouse, and wine shop, while steadily raising the quality of the wines.
With vineyards worked organically since 2005, the winery and vineyards are now fully Demeter-certified biodynamic and are transitioning to become fully sustainable. The winery roof features solar panels that generate an excess of electricity, while rainwater is collected and recycled. Winemaker Markus Brauchle works with a light touch; a long, very soft press for gentle extraction and very clean must, limited batonnage, no fining and low levels of SO2, without veering into natural wine territory.
This part of Germany has one of warmest growing seasons, so as with many wineries in Baden, the focus is on the “Pinot” varieties, of which Chardonnay is one, and they also make some Chasselas, which is more commonly found over the nearby border in Switzerland, plus a couple of really good non-alcoholic options.
Weisser Gutedel is otherwise known as Chasselas, which is more commonly associated with Switzerland, but also found in the southern reaches of Baden. Following a very slow, gentle press, this is fermented in stainless steel, followed by regular batonnage to lend texture. Aromas of juicy pears, mirabelle, white flowers, green walnuts and a little lemongrass with a gentle, creamy texture and fresh, salty acidity. Great value for biodynamic wine.
This Gutedel’s understated character makes it a versatile match for simple, seasonal dishes: think asparagus with beurre blanc, poached white fish, or fresh goat cheese. It also works well alongside cold starters, pickled vegetables, or light egg-based dishes.
